All done.

http://www.riverfronttimes.com/2008-04-16/restaurants/heat-rises-pappy-s-smokehouse-elevates-humble-barbecue-to-ethereal-heights/

What I want to say, but don't have the words for.

...and into home.

Minutes away from a full rack of ribs and, I suspect, a serious nap on the way home.

Rounding the corner...

Pappy's one more time!

So we knew we weren't going to get to Pappy's early, so we waited until 1:00 to avoid lunch rush. And here's the line. In the overflow hallway around the second corner. Behind 40 others in the main line. I tell you, this place is awesome.

and Arch by day

It is really hard to get any shot that visually explains what it's like near the arch. And that's because it really a physical, visceral experience. Just walking up to it gives vertigo, and it gives different perspectives from nearly every spot around it. Basically, you have to see it in person. It's impressive.

And I'll say the same for St Louis. Good place to visit. Lots if things and places done well, with very friendly people. Worth the trip.

Arch by night

Had an unsuccessful dinner Thursday night at Morgan Street Brewery in Old St Louis. Average beer (they made a Dark Pilsner, still have no idea what that was) and barely average food, combined with an incompetent waiter - that story I'll only tell live because it'll involve hand gestures, voices and many of the seven words you can't say on TV.

Penguins!!

Thursday afternoon was spent at City Park*, St Louis Zoo and Science Center. Big, beautiful park they made in the middle-ish of city. Zoo was nice, but doesn't compare to Milwaukee Zoo, except maybe in two areas: Herpetological Building and the new Penguin habitat. Penguins (and puffins) had a great area to hang out and swim, and it's nearly completely open - had a penguin swimming within touching range, close enough to splash you. Very very cool.
Science center was small but alright. Nothing more to say on that.

*Lots of plainly named things in St Louis, people don't seem to screw around with that. City Museum, City Park, bars and restaurants named after owner's name like Pappy's, Joe's, Johnny's, or even our hotel's bar, the Brew House. I know it's like that other places too, but seems just a bit more so here.

Return to Pappy's!!

Thursday lunch was at Pappy's, and once again it was the best ribs I've ever had. And best smoked turkey. Brisket was strong, but I have very little brisket experience, and deep down believe that it may not hold up to Texas brisket... will have to find out someday.

But the ribs, I have no more words, so I'll let James speak, "smokey, delicious meat, no sauce required".

P.S. Yes, that's the same photo from February, but it was the same amount of awesome, so deal.

P.P.S. And it will be the same picture tomorrow.

"Our food is better than it has to be"

http://www.johnnysinsoulard.com/

Since Spitzbarth has already filthied up this site my mother also reads, here the link to a bar we stopped at in historic Soulard Wednesday night. It was recommended to us by the hotel concierge who described as being "like a Hooters, but the girls get to wear their own clothes so they're not as covered up".

Another shot...

A little train-porn for Ed

So the original St Louis Union Station is now a mall. Nice make, great architecture. And a small museum with a very nice model oval. Couldn't get any good shots with actual train because of plexiglass glare, but this one is nice.

St Louis may have a secret

***Update as Ed is confused - this was Wednesday night dinner***
So, while St Louis may claim title to being the barbecue capital of the country/world, turns out they may not be referring to smoked meats served in restaurants, but rather that nearly everyone grills at home. Except they don't grill, they barbecue. Which is great for them, but is doing me no particular favor.

That's not to say there aren't ribs and pulled pork to found - there are, see above. But there are not a plethora. Everyone we talk to (and it's easy to talk, friendliest people I've met) always gives the same listing when asked for best barbecue places: Pappy's, Smoking Joe's and no where else. A couple of places used to be good, but have had recent changes in ownership (there is no agreement of where Fat Tony has gone, except that he 'had to' leave and the food there is no longer as good).

So, to the Iron Barley we went. And wonderful food was again had (I was there in February). We ate outside in the back garden, with some live music being played. Sat at the bar, and ended up talking for an hour with Tom, the owner. Good guy, good place.

Pick a video to watch ( if link doesn't work, just google Iron Barley), they give a good idea of the place. It's serious food, but with a small bar/restaurant feel.
http://www.google.com/m/search?&q=iron%20barley

(for the record, James had seared piece of Prime rib smothered with peppers and onions with a piece of blaster pie for dessert - homemade ice-cream cheesecake thing with Tabasco whipcream and habenaro sauce. I merely had a deconstructed duck apple feta cheese salad and schnitzel with speatzle (pictured))

City Museum

http://www.citymuseum.org/video.html

Went to this Wednesday afternoon, and the delay is in that I have no words or pictures to describe it. It is in name a museum, but in practice a ten-story playground, for children and adults (buy really children).

I haven't seen the video, but I hope it gives some sense of it. Absolutely fabulous, and worth the drive to St Louis alone - I wished the whole day I was 10 again.

Alright, to business

Smoking Joe's Bar-Be-Que

A young restaurant, 18-months-old, it's a 'refined' barbecue place. And by that I mean it has menus and table service. And meat... lots of meat. What you see is the double portion combo meal: 1/4 pound each of chicken and brisket and half-rack of ribs. Brisket was solid, just a touch dry. Chicken and ribs had the same rub (major rosemary flavor) and enough to form a crust. James really liked the ribs, I a little less but good. Sides were nondescript across the board.

All-in-all, pretty good start. But this leads to a potential problem, which I'll get to later (teaser!).

On the Road

Back on the road, a day later than planned. Had an unexpected visit yesterday from an old college friend in town for an interview, so delayed leaving. But going now and half-way to St Louis.